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Kalymnos. Rockclimbing dairy 2014

Cronicles of the Spring MCS AlexClimb rockclimbing trip to Kalymnos. Author - the Chief Coach of MCS AlexClimb Alexey Kozhevnikov!

Only automatically translated version is available at the moment, sorry for the inconvenience.

The program of Spring Kalimnos rockclimbing trip here!

 April 28, 2014
With Andrey Lunkov just returned from the first climbing workout. Weather slightly improved, cool but comfortable climbing. So, on April 28th. Poets sector. The first track, which Andryukha climbed on natural terrain, climbed, by the way, flush with the bottom, without become dependent Mustass, 5c +. Then climbed Styx, 6a +. I proveshivajut, Andrei made a flush. Then, too, they carried on the next, Oreads, 6a +. Then we decided to drastically raise the degree and went on to Ibria, 6b +. Excellent track for small and barbed hooks. Even there is a key. I did it-site, but Andrew is purely failed. But the fly turned out beautifully. Its first flight to Kalymnos. It all ended well. Then the degree of slightly reduced and climbed a simple 'six blah' - Dryads. This time Andrew all happened.

At the end of the training moved to Iannis sector. There I climbed a rather complex 6b +. Andrei did not go this route, on occasion he will tell how much fear he had suffered while climbing on the hooks, which were hardly visible. Well, that was the first and climbing training. We have a further restaurant and leisure... Adventure continues ....

April 28, 2014
Especially for those who did not go ... Anya?
After a workout, shower and a short rest, we went to a restaurant. Put clean clothes, white shirt Andrew dressed up ... We started with the tomato soup, Greek salad, and then, of course, greek plate for 2, and a dessert cake and wine. Anya?

April 29, 2014
I forgot to tell you that there are many climbing shops. After Andrew ruined more than one attempt from the fact that his old bald Boreal simply did not stand in relief, he came up with the bright idea to buy sneakers. Hiking, they died, ask the price. The top sneaker la sportiva Futura there are 130 euros. Walking as a walk. Have taken. Tomorrow we'll run in.

April 29, 2014
And of course, I can not tell, especially for Annie, about dinner. Dinner was again excellent. Overlooking the sea and the island of Telendos, the sound of the surf. Greek salad, I ordered different meat, spaghetti with seafood Andrew. Portions are huge, the amount of meat that I ate that evening, would be enough for a few days in Moscow. After dinner, a traditional dessert and a glass of wine. And then walk under the stars.
Oh, to live well and live well even better.

April 30, 2014
The entire team had gathered. We went to the Big grotto. All impressed. And of course, no restaurant anywhere))) will soon be pictures) Anya, all miss you). We again climbers. Please be crumpled in Poets sector. Andrew got the first track on the on-site hanging braces. It was the poets corner, 5c. Then I zaonsaytil and Andrew made the flush on Anacreonte, 6a. Then we moved on to Iannis sector. Climbed there Kalyne, 6b. I did it-site, Andrey wanted to fly a couple of times, a couple of times would become unresponsive, but through the power of will and my screams from below, made the same flash. Then I decided to just jump high and tried to 7b +. Clogged, scared and hung a bunch of times. Yet it is too early, not razlazilsya. Well, okay. But a little disappointed. In short, the nose was a click of overconfidence.

Then we moved to Kalydna sector, where Andrew tried to hang Extra, 6b. But it has not turned yet. Even at the second attempt, one hung. They left the project. I then unexpectedly climbed on on-site Ixion, 7a. Very technically Ruth on small hooks, a couple of places had even growl. Andrew did not take any chances on seven and zaonsaytil hanging with late evening light, 6a +. At this point we decided to finish the training day.

May 1, 2014
Today, May 1st. Holy feast for all workers. Peace, labor, May, Kalymnos. In this work a holiday, we have worked with great dispatch. The first training was excellent. We noticed yesterday afternoon sector. And now we decided to go there to perform labor records. In the morning, a little barrel, the day was hot. A lot of people, but we came early, so had to take the desired track. So pure passage:
1. Artem: Origano, 5a, on-sight; To deftero moro mou, 5c, redpoint; l'amico ralph, 5c, flash.
2. Volodya: Origano, 5a, flash; To deftero moro mou, 5c, flash, l'amico ralph, 5c, on-sight; blu, 6a, red point second go; nonno ringo, 5c, on-sight.
3. Julia: Origano, 5a, on-sight;
4. Nadia: Origano, 5a, on-sight; To deftero moro mou, 5c, redpoint, l'amico ralph, 5c, on-sight.
5. Andrei: To deftero moro mou, 5c, on-sight, l'amico ralph, 5c, on-sight; blu, 6a, on-sight; nonno ringo, 5c, on-sight.
Well, your humble servant, he climbed site some 6c and worked at 7b +. Seven tried three times. Short and bouldery. Dec, but not I folded. One hung. Next. Everyone really enjoyed it. We will continue to work.
All now understand how important it is to work on your feet relief. Volodya Berastau and Nadia Kruglov struck today all his tenacity and desire to fight to the last. After training, walking, swimming and ochchchen hearty dinner. Several liters of wine and food kilograms. After 6 hours of training it is not surprising. So the day passed, the adventures continue.

May 3, 2014
So, with some delay writing timely report for May 2.
People on the rocks added. Popular tracks have to win. But we decided to do the smart and go to the rear. We went early (8-30 am !!!) and went to the gym. Due to early exit and rapid podemu sector we managed to take the simple route. However, some Frogs still have bypassed us on the turn and managed to trim a couple of interesting trails.

Generally speaking, we wanted to finish early. Like hot supposedly got up early, they say the second day already climbed (and some for the fifth). But odd as razduhorilis, finished as usual after 16 tired and went home happy. A little rest. Dinner at the restaurant, walk under the moon, delicious coffee. Day was a success again.
A bit dry statistics:
1. Artem: layo and Bushwacka, 5c, on-sight; Tsopanakos, 5c +, on-sight; Yo-yo, 5c +, RP 2 go.
2. Volodya: layo and Bushwacka, 5c, on-sight; Yo-yo, 5c +, on-sight; Swiss baby, 6a, on-sight; finger percing, 4a, ON-SIGHT !!!!))) tried 6b Janas Kitchen, but has not yet received a net. According to the movements he made, but there are three dependent.
3. Julia: Strange little girl, 5b, flash; layo and Bushwacka, 5c, on-sight; Tsopanakos, 5c +, flash.
4. Nadia: strange little girl, 5b, on-sight; Tsopanakos, 5c +, RP 2 go; Yo yo, 5c +, on-sight.
5. Andrew struggled, flying, afraid to terrible 6b and overhanging 6a +. But the previous 5 days of climbing made themselves felt - not climbed. But still yo yo, 5c + climbed. We need a day of rest. Here and so was the next day.

May 3, 2014
On May 3. Recreation. Today a trip to Telendos. They sat on the boat. Swim to the island and went. Along the path. They walked and walked and after a few hours were on the top of the mountain. Climbing went well, death and destruction were not. Gore is not broke, the ancient basilica also virtually destroyed. From the summit offers stunning views of Kalymnos. Ah, for the sake of such moments worth living ...
Going down to the port, of course, we went into a cafe and noted the successful ascent of fresh salads and delicious coffee. In the evening, as always, restaurant, walking ... Adventure continues ...

May 4th. 
All night long muzzle. someone wanted to blow the roof, room, us and our food. But we repulsed the enemy. On the sky is not clear that, in the mind and muscles. But we have no choice and we rushed early in the morning. The goal of our aspirations Poets sector.
Periodically barrel, water and light. In short, varied. Relief for the children turned out to be new so long is rolled.
Artem: Saxonia, 6a, flash; Quando Tramonta il sol, 6a, flash; Pindaros, 5a, on-sight.
Volodya: Saxonia, 6a, on-sight; Quando Tramonta il sol, 6a, on-sight;
Dryads, 6b, RP 2 go; Tried interesting O'brothers 6b + from the top, from the start on the crimpers. Not yet developed.
Nadia: Anacreonte, 6a, RP 2 go.
Julia tried much enjoyed it. But tomorrow will be some errors.
Andrew: Saxonia, 6a, on-sight; Quando Tramonta il sol, 6a, on-sight; I worked on O'brothers 6b +, but has not yet happened.
We finished the climb at 5pm. Tomorrow we will do the job on the bugs.
Only the hardcore only rock 'n' roll. Tin is just beginning. And the adventure continues .....

5 May
Training Day. The day turned out to be but a short one. Suddenly, in the midst of the action, spilled from the sky. Therefore, in the middle of the day I had to retire. And, to be honest, before the rain we finally drove off the walls, we periodically watered and otherwise drizzle drenched.
In these difficult weather conditions, the guys had a little climb.
Artem: Oyzo, 5c +, on-sight; MAO, 5c +, on-sight; Metaxas, 6a +, RP 2 go.
Volodya: Oyzo, 5c +, on-sight; MAO, 5c +, on-sight; Metaxas, 6a +, RP 2 go.
Nadia Julia climbed only purely Poets' Corner, 5c. Nadia furious, uncompromising and with mats struggled to Sapfo, 6a +. It is not climbed, but it is completely soaked, fly upside down, and for some reason threw Yafon 5 with a height of 15 meters. Nadia intact, just a little wet. Phone is also alive, does not work only one button. Screen a. Miracles also occur.
Andrew climbed The Homeric Verses, 6a +.
Unexpected rain confused the cards. I had to take resolute decision and go down. Wet and demotivating. But after the sun clambered down. I had to swim. In the evening, as always - a restaurant. By the way, we have even reserved a table in the restaurant, even without our request. Damn nice.

6th of May.
Sunny. It will be hot. We came early at 9-30 already on the rocks. Little people, so we had to take a warm-up track. Volodya and Artem Poets in the sector climbed on-sight-th and flesh-eating respectively Poets' Corner, 5c. Then the guys moved into the sector and Iannis zaboroli RP 2 go cool "six blah" - Kalyne. After superovogo prolazit guys a little rest and went in and tried CETOP Kalydna KalyNikhla. But the track is not yet succumbed. Nazhe little bite - threw off a couple of times our climbers. Spectators even a little scared, the actors did not have time. But adrenaline got. We decided to leave the track as a project for the next time. Nadia Julia fought and tried. But a little tired. Therefore, the net prolazit yet failed to do. But the attempts were noted prolezts top rope 6c + on crimpers. Hard, but something worked. Andrew climbed after Extra, 6b.
The day passed quietly. Done climb at 16-30. And they went home. In the evening, traditional dinner is very tight. Climbers also need to eat.
I, by the way, running between boys and girls, had to climb a short but interesting 7b + Adventure continues .... Friends! We continue to publish our next series of serial travel. So, let's begin.

7 May.
On this day, we were on the rocks about 8 hours. From start to finish, so to speak. We visited in the two sectors, tanned, shabby-and-again-tanned. and something crawled. The first sector, which we visited, was the North Cape. The sector is interesting for its terrain - very sharp, sometimes razor hooks. Friction fucking, all perfectly keeps even the finest flakes. But to fall apart at such a relief not to be - will reach only the ears. or maybe not, and will reach the ears. Another sector is interesting because it is fully possible to consider the route 8c +. Consider it is possible, as the climb - it is not clear. The route is almost completely horizontal on the ceiling and no obvious clues. Try not to become. We left the next exit. But try other equally interesting routes.
Net passage:
Volodya: Nordic Waking, 5c, RP 2 go; North Light, 5c +, flash; Ice age, 5c, on-sight;
Nadia: Nordic Waking, 5c, top rope;
Julia: Ice age, 5c, top rope; Nordic Waking, 5c, top rope;
Artem fought, but tired. I decided to make a day of rest, not to get tired eventually.
Andrew: Nordic Waking, 5c, on-sight; North Light, 5c +, RP 2 go; Ice age, 5c, on-sight;
I unexpectedly tried 8a.
The route is called Helios, only 15 meters. Strong hangs one complex motion. Delays, the glory of some Belgians were proveshany. I was able to try this route twice. The track seems to me, from the soft discharge. However, I have nothing to compare. 8a I had never touched. Bottom drawn to 6b +, then a pair of interceptions of 7b / 7b +, and then ADCA key one interception. I do not guessed, prompted the alignment of knowledgeable people. In the first approach I did not, in the second movement mastered. But still need to collect. This is the next time. But the main thing - not so terrible 8a, how about it tell climbers that want to impress girls. Then we moved to Kasteli sector. Sector nice, lots of easy runs. Today it was quite windy, so even the sun was quite comfortable. What and who has climbed:
Volodya: Gefaehrliche Brandung, 6a, on-sight; Piccolo Diavolo, 6a +, on-sight; Scarabeus, 5b, flash;
Nadia: Hocla; 5c +, on-sight;
Julia: Scarabeus, 5b, on-sigh;
Andrew: Gefaehrliche Brandung, 6a, on-sight; Piccolo Diavolo, 6a +, on-sight; Scarabeus, 5b, on-sight;
I quickly climbed Bambola Blu, 7b. Funny track. A total of 8 meters, 6 pieces of braces. In short, overhanging boulder hayboll. But with a rope. I tried this route in the last departure. Therefore Redpoint.
After training we went to the pass and looked over the island and the bay from the top. Types stunning. Then traditionally - dinner walks.

May 8
It declared a day of rest. Drive around almost the entire island, drank coffee in Potii, Andrew put on a ferry to Kos, and visited the ruins Chrysoheria castle and Hora castle. Back at home, of course, bought, then dinner, then Schoppe, then walked.
That's how we live. Adventure continues...

9th May.
Great day. Victory Day. All the holiday! It is a pity that did not bring flags ... would pass along the main street. The next time we take. But back to climbing. Today is not hot, we go to the Belgian chocolates sector. Trails interesting for small clues, you need a good footwork, but not the most frequent punching adds adrenaline.
Volodya: Faron, 5c, on-sight; Dodo, 6a +, on-sight; Ewa, 6b, ON-SIGHT !!!
Artem: Faron, 5c, on-sight;
Julia: Jolli, 5b + on-sight; Dodo, 6a +, Top rope.
Nadia: Jolli, 5b +, on-sight; Sunny Mousse, 5b +, on-sight; Dodo, 6a +, top rope; Ewa, 6b, Top rope.
Guys still worked on Thetis, 6b in Arhi sector. Short, but hangs and tuffs. Very interesting relief, but have not yet zaboroli. They left the project.
The girls tried to Le coq, 6c. From the top. Interesting track, but the key is not yet done. Boom train.
In the evening, nothing special - restaurant, shopping...

May 10.
In the morning rain. The mood of a minor because there were huge plans. Means no luck. All plans are now taking the next visit. Today, we walk.
First we went to the village of Emborios, drank coffee, watched the rain. Rain sometimes smoothly flowed into the shower and back.
Then we decided that on the surface it was too cold and wet, and the coffee is not saved. So we went to see the cave Skalia cave. It turned out - interesting. And Nadia generally seems to die caver. The cave is large enough, a couple of steep slopes is equipped with ladders, but the light is not carried out - fled one flashlight and phones. Stalactites, stalagmites .... They looked in every corner, sat in silence, the dark, listen to water dripping ... This sinters thousand years .... They began to grow long before man appeared and will continue to grow after the humanity disappears. Unless, of course, people will be able to preserve this beauty. After visiting the cave we went to look for a couple more. After passing half of the island, we were in the village of Riva, which is located on the banks of a very picturesque bay ala fjord. As we were not looking for, but have not found the cave. But a bunch of Russian tourists. We tried not to attract attention.

Watching and naiskavshis, we went in the direction Kephala cave. This time we found what you were looking for. Indeed, the cave, there is really stalactites and stalagmites. But small. We've been looking for some passage somewhere deep, but did not find. But still I enjoyed it.
Finally we went to look for some sort of cave, which has no name, but there is a mark on the map. About an hour we rode on the slopes and looked in every hole in the ground or a wall. A frightened bunch of spiders, broke several tens of cobwebs, but nothing but the caves are not found. Tired and a bit disgruntled went home. And in the evening .... Oh, and in the evening ... dinner ... warm farewell from the restaurant owners, shopping ... And then ... the night, stars, moon, beach, sea, sand, surf, Italian sparkling, talk, laugh ... and a little regret, that all ends ...
But ... the adventure ends and we say: "Forward, to new adventures!"