Peru climbing

At eight degrees south latitude

(author A. Trubachev)

photographs

The event was designed and organized by the School of Mountaineering and Climbing AlexClimb. General sponsor of the project - the company Home Design. Climbing equipment was provided by CAMP. Sincere thanks to all!

Mountaineering and climbing in Peru, climbing Alpamayo, Huascaran, Tocllaraju

The plane landed in Lima in the evening, when the ocean went out a blood-red glow of sunset. The people on the plane slowly came to life after a hard 14-hour jump across the Atlantic. While the plane taxied on the strip, I turned the clock for 8 hours ago. The body does not believe in this little trick - for it had long been the middle of the night and he was very sleepy. However, behind the local time was only seven hours a night, and already quite dark in the winter. Everything has been turned upside down - we flew from Moscow bright spring morning, walked around Madrid warm May evening, and by the evening of the next day was already late autumn, which is known in the southern hemisphere corresponds to the spring in the northern hemisphere.

It was necessary to decide whether to go for us in Huaraz immediately by overnight bus, and thus save the day, or wait until morning, relaxing in the hotel and then go day flight. The second option was more tempting - after a long 24 hour day frankly wanted to sleep, but, on the other hand, the daily bus ride meant losing all day. In any case, should first get to the bus station, which we do immediately after baggage claim and passing a formal border controls - a procedure in Peru is not burdensome. For entry does not need a visa, passport is sufficient, in that sleepy border guard silently slaps a big shapeless print.

So we arrived in full of mysteries, unknown and distant country to witness the mountains, the beauty of which around the world is legendary. But the mountains still had to get to.

On leaving the airport we caught a smart girl with a sign "trucking", fend off which had no strength, and accept the loss of $ 15 (taxi could go bargain and cheaper), we boarded a small bus company more 5- 6 of the same barely alive tourists. After 10 minutes, the bus was already flying into the unknown for us city boldly ahead, cutting and continuously communicating with other road users using the horn. Later I realized that this manner of driving at all peculiar to the Peruvian drivers, and while that was going on the road, cleared the dream state, and I'm stronger gripping the handrail, curiously peered into the darkness, trying to understand what is the unknown city. But nothing particularly interesting to see not - rare stunted trees, dark low construction indeterminate color and shape - at first glance Lima showed me the city, on which I would like to take a walk. Later, in the light of the day I realized that the first impression was quite true.

To Lima from the airport, drove about an hour. Bringing tourists in hotels they need, the bus took us to the bus station.

Leave this evening from Lima, we have not been able to. It was Friday, and people crowded out of town for the weekend - all tickets were sold out evening flight. But there is a silver lining - fatigue at this point accumulated terrible, and spend another sleepless night on the bus would be tactically wrong, then we are still unlikely to be able to fully use the next day. Not bothered over this issue, we went to a nearby hotel, which quickly found thanks to the help of friendly staff bus. After 15 minutes, we have explained the sleepy porter in a hotel Pan-American, that we need a room with shower and, preferably, clean sheets on the beds. Hotel - hole hole, pressing situation brothel. Forces to look for another hotel was not, decided that after two days without sleep, a soft bed and a hot shower - more than enough.

In the morning we were awakened by a taxi driver, who arrived an hour before the appointed time - not to beat the competition. Quickly packed up and went to the bus station.

Mountaineering and climbing in Peru, climbing Alpamayo, Huascaran, Tocllaraju Above the city hung a dense fog, drizzle drizzling rain. I must say that the impression of a heavy night of Peru's capital in the morning was worse. In the daylight Lima produced even more unpleasant experience than in the dark. Heavy could completely cover the city, consisting of assorted buildings do not agree with each other or in color, either in size or shape. The complete absence of any architecture hurt the eyes. A thick layer of dust hid the already gray unpainted house in streaks of dirt, made the best of what God has sent. Streets sweeping workers respirators. The dust they raised their brooms, quickly settled on them and the surrounding landscape ...


Mountaineering and climbing in Peru, climbing Alpamayo, Huascaran, Tocllaraju We went to Huaraz from Lima all day, 8 hours distance of 400 km and 3 km climb. On the way, most of all I was interested in the question - how is it that at a sufficiently high fuel prices ($ 2-3 per liter), the cost of a bus ticket from Lima to Huaraz is only 12 dollars? Trivial arithmetic. Healthy eating diesel bus by the most conservative estimates at least 30 liters per hundred. That is 400 km will go at least 120 liters, which will cost no less than 240 bucks. Not counting the salary of the driver, and so on. Inter alia, for the same $ 12, and we still have a good idea fed on the road. Passengers on the bus was no more than 10-15 people ... How is it, who explained to me?

Mountaineering and climbing in Peru, climbing Alpamayo, Huascaran, Tocllaraju Some time after leaving Lima I pondered the reasons for this paradox of economic and tried to take an interest in the landscape, but, weary of his dusty monotony, and soon fell asleep, frankly, slept most of the way, on the what is not particularly sorry - I hardly missed something very interesting, but little enough sleep. Get off the bus in Huaraz, we immediately got a pack bukletikov touting various local travel services and consulting with fellow travelers, went to a small hotel located two blocks from the bus station.

Settling in a fairly modest, but clean and tidy private hotel and a little rest, we went for a walk around the city - a little look around, buy products and organize zabrosku our small group directly to the area of the climb. Although the tops of the mountains were covered with clouds over Huaraz slowly getting dark and filled with stars sky. Colder.

Mountaineering and climbing in Peru, climbing Alpamayo, Huascaran, Tocllaraju Introduction to Huaraz, we decided to start from the center, or as it is called in almost all the former Spanish colonies Plaza d'Armas (Plaza de Armas). I wonder how intertwined in this place long history of the descendants of the Incas and Fashionable modern sports - mountain climbing, rock climbing, trekking. Provincial town deep in the Peruvian Andes became a powerful center of tourist activity. For tourists, there is almost everything - hotels, restaurants, bars, gear rental and sale, supermarkets, lots of Internet cafes, even climbing walls. At the same time the city has not lost its identity, does not become a template mountain resort. In the city of ordinary people live quite well-disposed to the tourists. They go to church, to the market, relax in the park. The city lives its own life, slow and measured, with equanimity and a certain irony looking as if from the outside to the whole turmoil that brought people here, sick mountains.

Mountaineering and climbing in Peru, climbing Alpamayo, Huascaran, Tocllaraju woke up the next morning and looked out the window, just above the town, I saw snow-capped mountains of incredible beauty. The mood immediately jumped up. Now it is clear, for which we have a long and painful traveled here!

The first meeting with new mountains is always an event, the starting point to the beginning of something new, clean. I was always amazed how deeply touches the soul that moment, as if the bright face of the sky suddenly becomes human traits and, smiling, winking at you from above! High above the valley, above the swirling clouds appeared in the sky mirage - a huge, incredibly huge pink mountain. Huascaran, smile sky ... Vision lasted no more than 5 minutes, and then the clouds closed fairy painting, as if someone dropped the curtain - the play is over.

Mountaineering and climbing in Peru, climbing Alpamayo, Huascaran, Tocllaraju Soon came the day before ordered the machine on which we went to Pashpu - highland Indian villages, the starting point of our climbing program.

By the way, since I mentioned here the name of the highest peaks in Peru - Huascaran, talk a little about how this beautiful mountain famous throughout the world. So, the story ...

In the evening, January 10, 1962 on the northern top of Huascaran ice collapse occurred total volume of about 3 million cubic meters. Triggered by the collapse of mudflow has caused an unprecedented disaster, which killed more than 4,000 people. Mud flow, burying in 10 minutes and 6 villages in ruins a dozen villages rushed down at a speed of 110 km / h and carried on itself boulders the size of a three-storey house ... It was the largest in the history of the mudflow, and his study immediately took scientists from around the world. Among pundits engaged in the study of mudflow threat immediately broke feud - some have argued that this phenomenon may be repeated once in a century, while others argued that no more frequently than once in a millennium. While a lively discussion went, there was something nobody expected. May 31, 1970, at 15 hours 23 minutes in Peru there was an earthquake and then the collapse of the northern peaks Huascaran ... This time it was much more serious, it can be said the first crash was only a warning. Average speed Uaskaranskogo mudslide in 1970 amounting to 110 m / s (396 km / h !!), and in less than 4 minutes of the city and large town Yungay Ranrairka were only memories, as well as about 18,000 of their inhabitants ...

The scale of this disaster is hard to imagine. It is considered that in the mountains the greatest danger to humans of avalanches. This phenomenon is people constantly face, talking about it on TV, every winter season, claiming the lives of skiers and climbers. Boarded occur much less frequently, and it seems that they just about no one remembers. Although they should be, because the destructive power of debris flow hundreds of times greater than that of an avalanche. Take, for example, the disaster in Tyrnyauz or Karmadonov. All cried: trouble-trouble, no one was watching, no money, and so on ... And what about those disasters that have not yet happened? Such as the Caucasus, the Caucasus, in the valley Adil-Su moraine lake on "Green Hotel" in the summer, during the snowmelt often filled to overflowing, creating a direct threat to the entire valley ... Russia - a rich country, much richer Peru. However, the Peruvians after the disaster in 1970 took up the case, and today it is difficult to believe, but almost everyone, even the most remote mountain lake at an altitude of 5000 meters are equipped with artificial drainage, preventing his breakthrough in the case of a sudden overflow! I wonder what's going to happen with us, someone decided to spend the money on the security of people ?! I'm sorry, I stepped away from the main theme of my story.

Mountaineering and climbing in Peru, climbing Alpamayo, Huascaran, Tocllaraju So we disembarked from a taxi on the main square Pashpy - a small grassy area in front of dilapidated churches, where three winding streets of this village. We must pay tribute to the taxi driver - the way here was not easy for him, and for his car. Overloaded drove an old Toyota Corolla, where could easily get stuck and UAZ ... Due to the weekend on the square reigned some recovery. Located near the spinning wheel and wool group of local women in picturesque costumes - bright colorful skirts, vests and hats motley. Incidentally, the national costume in the Peruvian villages inhabitants dress not for the entertainment of tourists, a traditional casual wear peasants. Dress on printsiru - the brighter - the better. Colors - red, blue, green, the brightest shades and combinations thereof. Indispensable attribute of national costume - a hat, without it on the street will not work no self-respecting Peruvian ...

Our driver went to fulfill the mandate given to him in Huaraz - find us donkeys and drover, local arriero, so that we can comfortably continue our journey up the valley. We, meanwhile, turned his head and looked curiously around us situation. Mountaineering and climbing in Peru, climbing Alpamayo, Huascaran, Tocllaraju mud walls of small ramshackle houses on the earthen floor, kids playing in the dust mixed with grazing pigs, squat dilapidated church with a bell tower sagging low ... What passes through this village is quite a popular tourist route, it seems not much has changed the way of life of these people, just has several opportunities for additional earnings. People mostly living in agriculture, raise sheep, llamas. Tourist look like aliens that, in essence, that's right - we are aliens from another world entirely.

Pashpa translated from the local Indian dialect of Quechua means "covered with frost." The village is situated at an altitude of about 3800 meters, and the phenomenon of snow here does not surprise anyone, hence the name.

Mountaineering and climbing in Peru, climbing Alpamayo, Huascaran, Tocllaraju place objects on the donkeys, small rucksacks behind we came out Pashpy small caravan. The road first dived into a grove of young eucalyptus trees, then walked slowly up along overlaid by low stone fences pasture with llamas and sheep. Pastures soon ended, replaced by impenetrable thickets of cactus and obscure, creeping along the ground, large trees. Donkeys hooves clatter cheerfully, and became more and more dense thickets, sometimes trail is a narrow gallery with walls and ceiling of the mossy strange trees, which could not even say that it is - needles or hardwood. To the question "what is it?", Arriero told local name of the plant from a dozen syllables Quechua, the beginning of the word I have forgotten by the time when the Indian finished pronouncing it.

Meanwhile, the height exceeds 4000 meters - in the Caucasus at this altitude there is nothing but the eternal snow and stones.

Three hours later the forest was over, and ahead of his tongue glaciers and high snow-capped peaks. Coming out of the forest, the trail has become more civilized and well-groomed appearance - two neatly laid out a number of stones restricted path on the right and the left. Someone was obviously too lazy to do this job ... Although, in principle, can be understood. The fact that, formally, this area is a national park and throughout the season all the tourists visiting the area to pay for it some insignificant amount. Accordingly, the money should be spend on something, otherwise people might be offended. And overlay path stones - very reasonable, since this is absolutely useless at first glance, the work is visible to almost everyone, and it's the first thing you can specify in the answer to the question: where is the money? In fact, charging a small fee for visiting here seem justified - indeed done a lot with the soul: the trails are well maintained and equipped with pointers, no signs of debris, no spontaneous garbage dumps. The district built several alpine shelters. Everything is done soundly, and obviously not the purpose of robbing tourists. People did a good job and it's nice to give money.

Mountaineering and climbing in Peru, climbing Alpamayo, Huascaran, Tocllaraju But since we visited this place a little before the official start of the season, no one bothered to sell us a ticket and completely without any adventures we got to the hut climbing Ishinca - huge stone building with flying Peruvian flag, located on the edge of a large moraine plateau in expanding the upper part of the valley Ishinca, at the foot of the Urus.


Mountaineering and climbing in Peru, climbing Alpamayo, Huascaran, Tocllaraju Tocllaraju, "stone lasso" in Quechua. Strange name for a mountain. Maybe so named this mountain due to the fact that it literally catches the eye traveler catches and holds the correctness of its forms, dazzling white light snow. This peak can not be confused with the other, although the neighborhood there are higher mountains.

Early in the morning when the valley was still asleep, and the sun is only slightly affected snowy peaks, we went the route of climbing Ishinca hut.

Assault camp established at an altitude of 5200, at the edge of the vast plateau of snow, hiding from possible wind under the cover rocks. The sun was setting, and adjacent vertices began a furious play of colors - a harbinger of stunning spectacle.

Mountaineering and climbing in Peru, climbing Alpamayo, Huascaran, Tocllaraju We began to climb the easy rocks adjacent to the camp vershinki to with her to fully enjoy the incredibly beautiful spectacle - a panoramic view of the sunset from a height of 5300 meters. The spectacle is really worth the effort. Right in front of us stood kilometer pyramid tops Tocllaraju on changing the color of the eyes and shimmering shades of red and orange. While noticeably darkened air became transparent, and distant mountains on the acquired contrast against darkened magenta horizon.

Fascinated, we were sitting on top until the end of the submission until the sun finally disappeared behind a distant ridge of the Black Cordillera, and all the bright colors dimmed. It is unlikely that someone would ask at this point about why somewhere to climb, to take risks. It's very simple. Everything seemed meaningless and gets it again. Mountains teach man to enjoy simple things, return the value of a long-forgotten and lost all sense of ...

Going down to the tent, we had dinner, from snow to heat water for breakfast (not to waste time on it in the morning), and quietly went to sleep, set the alarm for 3:00 am - the best time to start climbing.

Mountaineering and climbing in Peru, climbing Alpamayo, Huascaran, Tocllaraju After the bell alarm clock, the first thing I listened with bated breath: not started if the wind is not the weather turned bad? Outside reigned absolute silence. Unbuttoning the frozen canopy tent, I looked out and closed his eyes from the brightness of light reflected from the snow of millions of stars. It was as bright as day, the entire route of the upcoming ascent was visible at a glance. Someone is already out on the route before us - on the trail under the overhanging seracs on the snow danced a few yellow spots of light: climbers went with lanterns, apparently meaningless in such a natural lighting. Whip up breakfast, we also went on the trail.


Mountaineering and climbing in Peru, climbing Alpamayo, Huascaran, Tocllaraju firmly frozen snow loudly pokryakival a sharp-toothed cats. They walked slowly, saving strength for the top, the most difficult part of the route. A few hours spent on something that is slowly gaining on the slope of the hill climb at first difficult part - a steep ice takeoff, height of about 40 meters of gently rising on it, we went into the narrow passage between the icebergs on which climbed the wide snowy shoulder, leading to the top. Dawn. Gradually dimmed the stars, and the horizon grew from dark blue purple, then pale pink. Suddenly flashed crimson fire snow cap on top Tocllaraju. The spectacle of a beautiful turned into something fantastic - now looked like the top of a huge chunk of ice cream, drizzled on top of the jam! It has become much easier and more fun to go to the top was no more than 300 meters. Soon we overtook a bunch of two-piece - Mountaineering and climbing in Peru, climbing Alpamayo, Huascaran, Tocllaraju American with a local guide, with American, standing on all fours, clearly did not feel hearty, and his guide intently organized complex insurance on a completely flat and safe location. Ahead, already under the top, could be seen a few black dots - someone was almost there.

The second difficult part was already lifting under the exit to the top - about 100 meters rather steep snow and ice slope with a small karnizikom top. Another 15 minutes of quiet climbing with ice tools and here we are at the top! In order to understand that in such a moment a man feels it is necessary to at least once to climb the mountain. This is a victory without losers, this euphoria is impossible made possible, it is a joy, from which chills go to the heart ... Lyrics? Try it yourself to describe something like that.

From the summit opens a spectacular panorama of all the Peruvian Andes, stretching from south to north. Ice machine of Huascaran regally hovering over a light morning mist Rio Santa Valley in the north-east, the west wall of black rose Ridge Cordilliera Negra, east left in the fog Mountain and rock climbing in Peru, climbing Alpamayo, Huascaran, Tocllaraju wet valley origins of the Amazon. The entire south side of the horizon was carved with intricate ice forms peaks Cordilliera Blanca.

Terribly tired, but quite happy, at noon, we went down to the high camp, which was removed after an hour's rest and lunch, and went down to the base camp.

Climbing over, it was time to go home.

P.S. The trip was very bright, full of abundant new experiences. But for some reason, most of all I remember one time. Night. Waiting for the car in Pashpe, we sit and warmed his hands a small fire and sometimes it puts a eucalyptus wood chips, which ran for a little boy, the son of our arriero. Smoke from the fire reeks resin. The Children Are Watching Us big eyes in which fear mixed with wild curiosity. Carefully look out from behind his father, with whom I am trying to carry on a conversation in broken Spanish. I talk about that very, very far away there is a country - Russia. The fact that there too the village and they also live people. Trying to talk about how they live. There are no words, but I listen with interest, trying to repeat the unfamiliar words: Moscow, Caucasus, Russia ... Somehow very comfortable and at home in this small fire on the edge of the world, razozhzhёnnogo swarthy children's hands ...